How to Change the Water Line Inside the Refrigerator Door


You will need to repair the water line in your refrigerator if either the line that leads to the ice and water dispenser develops a leak or if you believe that slime and algae are forming within the tubing. You may avoid the expense of a service visit and save money by replacing the water line on your own if you have some level of experience with do-it-yourself projects. After you have finished defrosting the refrigerator, you should cut off the water supply and disconnect the appliance to avoid any accidents involving water or electricity.

  1. To thaw the food in the refrigerator, run the defrost cycle. Stop the flow of water by turning off the valve that controls the supply. Pull the power line out of the socket where the refrigerator is plugged in.

  2. Put some downward pressure on the drip tray located on the bottom of the dispenser, slide it out, and then put it to the side. Putty knife should be inserted into the seam that lies between the bottom of the dispenser and the exterior escutcheon or cover plate of the dispenser. Use the lever to lever the bottom edge out to the side.

  3. To remove the lower tabs, slide the putty knife up under the escutcheon from the bottom and push it outwards. According to advice provided by Refrigerator Repair, slide the cover plate up and off the top locating tabs. To reveal the electrical connections, you will need to pull the plate outwards just a little bit and then flip it around.

  4. You should be able to find the connection for the wire harness at the top of the hollow. Disconnect the plug from the connection by first pressing the locking tab in with your thumb, and then place the cover plate to the side.

  5. To liberate the dispenser, first release the locking tabs on the right and then on the left in succession. Then, gently pull the dispenser down to reach the water line. Turn the dispenser assembly so that it is facing upward, then tuck the top edge of it into the cavity so that it is out of the way.

  6. Follow the water tube until you reach the support bracket, which should be located in the notch on the right side of the entry to the dispenser. To remove the bracket from its mounting post, first remove the single screw that is fastening the bracket to the rear of the recess. This may be done with a screwdriver or a nut driver with a 1/4-inch head. To make removal of the bracket easier, detach the water line from its mounting.

  7. Kneel down and open both doors of the refrigerator so you can get your hands on the bottom kick plate and grille. Put the putty knife into the seam on the right-hand side of the kick plate, which is located between the top of the refrigerator and the kick plate, and pull the right side away from its holding clip. To separate the kick plate, repeat the process on the left side. Put the kick plate somewhere else, and then shut the doors.

  8. Try putting your hand inside the aperture on the left side of the refrigerator. Find the original water line, and then drag it as far ahead as you can. Your thumb should be used to push the red locking ring on the near end of the water line connection inward while your forefinger and middle finger are hooked around the rear of the connector. According to The Handyguys, after this step has been completed, you should use your other hand to gently pry the old water tubing out of the connection.

  9. Grab the end of the water line that is sticking up into the aperture of the dispenser by reaching up and grabbing it. After the dispenser was loosened, you should lift it out of the way and then carefully remove the old water tube up and out of the door of the refrigerator.

  10. Put the end of the new water tube into the hole that is located next to the hinge on the door’s bottom left side. You should not force the tube as you carefully feed it up through the opening until you see the end of the tube emerge in the recess for the water-tube bracket. Continue to feed the tube upward until there is about eight inches of tubing visible within the chamber of the dispenser.

  11. Put the end of the new tube in the retention slot and hole in the support bracket so that it is secure. Check to see that the length of the free end that faces downward is comparable to the length of the previous tube installation.

  12. To remove the extra tubing that is causing the loop to develop within the bracket cavity, carefully draw the tube down from the bottom aperture until it is no longer there. Place the bracket on its mounting post, and then use the screw that was removed previously to fasten it in place.

  13. Turn the assembly of the dispenser back into its original position. Place the top edge with care, and then gradually raise the assembly, moving it up until the side locking tabs align with the clips. When you get the feeling that the locking tabs are properly aligned, you may stop pressing the bottom inward.

  14. Adjust the cover plate so that it is aligned correctly, then reconnect the wire harness connector. Hook the three tabs that are located on top of the escutcheon into their respective slots that are located on top of the dispenser, and then depress the two dispenser paddles so that they may move freely. You should feel the lower tabs click into place after you have pushed the bottom edge of the escutcheon far enough inward. Changing out the drip tray for the water dispenser.

  15. Determine the length of the surplus tubing that is visible through the door’s bottom and measure it so that it can be aligned with the connector without kinking. A felt pen should be used to mark the location, and a wooden block should be positioned on the ground close to the cut line. Place the tubing on top of the block, and then use a utility knife with a sharp blade to cut out the excess length at one end. Try your best to keep the right-angle cut as straight as possible.

  16. Place the end of the tube that has been cut off into the push-fit connection. Take hold of the connection with one hand, then use the other to pull the tube inward until you hear the locking mechanism for the connector click into position. To test whether or not the connection locking mechanism is operating correctly, gently pull the tube in the other direction.

  17. Open both refrigerator doors. After positioning the bottom kick plate so that the tabs on each side are aligned with it, press the ends of the plate inward until the tabs are secured. Test the dispenser to confirm that it is functioning correctly once you have reconnected the power cable, turned back on the water supply shut-off valve, and tested it.

    Things You Will Need

    • Putty knife

    • 1/4 inch nut driver

    • Felt-tipped pen

    • Small wooden block

    • Sharp utility knife


    When you remove the cover plate from the refrigerator, it is important to make a mental note of where the tabs are located on the top and bottom of the water dispenser unit so that they can be reinstalled correctly.

    To prevent the replacement tube from being kinked while you are carrying out this operation, be careful while you are attaching the new tube in the mounting bracket that is located within the dispenser.

    Instead of a push-fit connector, some refrigerators have threaded couplings installed between the door water line and the water input pipe. This allows for a more secure connection. If this is the case, you should avoid putting the threaded connection in danger by tightening it to an excessive degree.

    If you uncover anything that seems to be different from the new water line for the dispenser offered by other manufacturers, it is recommended that you get in touch with those manufacturers to request further information.


    Mopping up any water that may have spilled during initial defrosting when removing or reconnecting up the old water tube might help prevent mishaps involving slipping and falling.

    In order to protect yourself from receiving an electric shock, you should make it a point to drain any water that has pooled before reconnecting the appliance.