How to Paint a Refrigerator


Because a refrigerator is made up of both metal and plastic, the process of painting a refrigerator is quite similar to the process of painting a vehicle. It is necessary to cure rust in order to stop it from spreading further and to stop holes from becoming rusted. If you do not have access to spray equipment, you may still get satisfactory results by using aerosol cans; but, if you do have access to spray equipment, you will be able to complete the work more effectively. You may even use a brush and roller if you want to ensure the greatest results; there is a specific method for doing so.

Preparation Procedure

Preparation is the most important step in the painting process. Painters like to state that preparation accounts for 90 percent of the process, but in the case of painting a refrigerator, it may even account for 95 percent of the process. After all of the necessary preparations have been made, the refrigerator should be thoroughly cleaned, free of rust, and appropriately masked. Additionally, the current finish should be gently etched so that the new paint can form a stronger connection with it.


Phillips screwdriver!!-!!!!-!!!!-!!!!-!! The chemical formula for trisodium phosphate is!!-!! Rubber gloves


120-grit wet/dry sandpaper

Priming compound that prevents rusting!!-!! Filler for automobile bodies!!-!! Knife made of plastic for applying putty!!-!! Tape used for painting!!-!!!!-!! Remove the plug from the refrigerator and relocate it so that it is in the centre of the kitchen; alternatively, you might relocate it to a work area or even outdoors. Newspaper should be placed on the ground just underneath the appliance.

Take off the handles as well as any other detachable trim you may find. Each handle is typically fastened in place by a pair of Phillips screws; but, in certain cases, you may be required to unsnap some trim in order to access the screws.

Clean the whole appliance using a solution that has half a cup of trisodium phosphate added to one gallon of warm water. TSP is a powerful detergent that can dissolve oil and other deposits found in the kitchen while also etching the surface it is applied to. While working with it, you should protect your hands by using rubber gloves and goggles.

Sand the rusty portions using wet/dry sandpaper with a 120-grit grit, eliminating as much of the rust as you can. Applying a rust-inhibiting primer to the affected areas will help keep the rust from reappearing.

Use car body filler to patch any holes, applying it with a plastic putty knife. After the filler has had time to harden, smooth it out using a palm sander and sandpaper with a grain of 120.

Use painter’s tape to cover any areas of the refrigerator that you do not want to have painted. Because it is essential to prevent paint from getting on the faces of the door gaskets, you should cover them with tape and make the edge of the tape flush with the outside of the gasket. This will prevent paint from getting on the faces of the door gaskets. This will enable you to paint the portion of the gasket that is visible to you.

  1. Put any detachable grilles or pieces of trim on a nearby flat surface so that you may paint them individually.

  2. You should use a high-quality appliance paint or appliance epoxy coating, regardless of whether you spray, brush and roll, or do it another way. Applying a primer made of a water-based solvent on plastic first can help avoid early failure on plastic surfaces. A rust-preventing metal primer has to be applied to bare metal before it can be used. A magnet can swiftly determine whether a product is made of metal or plastic, so have one handy if you’re ever unsure. Only surfaces made of metal will allow the magnet to adhere.

  3. Primer

  4. 4 inches of foam brush

  5. Roller

  6. 11-inch long brush made of foam

  7. 320-grit wet/dry sandpaper

Painting Procedure

Spraying or brushing primer onto plastic and metal surfaces is acceptable methods of application. When brushing, make lengthy strokes that are parallel to one another and use a foam brush that is 4 inches wide. Hold the can 4 to 6 inches away from the surface, or the distance that is indicated by the manufacturer, and spray in long, even strokes if you are using a spray can.

The top of the refrigerator should be painted first, followed by the sides, and then the front should be painted last. If you are going to apply the paint using both a brush and a roller, start by rolling the paint over the whole panel. After that, go back over the paint with a loaded brush to get rid of any streaks or roller marks. Begin at the bottom and work your way up as you go from top to bottom with each stroke.

The technique is the same whether you are using a brush or a spray can; the only difference is that when you use the spray can, you make lengthy vertical strokes with the spray pattern.

If you want the greatest results while brushing and rolling, use a roller cover with a short nap measuring 1/4 inch and a foam brush measuring 11 inches.

After the paint has had the necessary amount of time to cure, which is normally an hour or two, gently scuff it using wet-dry sandpaper that has a 320-grit grain. Sand any drop marks that you find until they are flat, using a little water to lubricate the sandpaper if you find that you need to. Scuffing is an essential step in the process, regardless of whether you choose to spray or brush and roll.

Apply a second layer of the paint. Roll the paint on first, then brush out the markings left by the roller, but this time move the brush in the opposite direction of what you did when you rolled the paint on.

  1. At the very least, let the paint a full day to dry before removing the masking tape and putting the pieces back together.

  2. Paint the top of the refrigerator first, then the sides and, finally, the front. If you apply the paint with a brush and roller, apply the paint to an entire panel, using a roller, then stroke over the paint with a loaded brush to remove streaks and roller marks. Stroke from top to bottom, starting at the bottom and moving up.

    When using a spray can, the strategy is the same, except you’re making long vertical strokes with the spray pattern instead of a brush.


    When brush-and-rolling, use a roller cover with a short, 1/4-inch nap and an 11-inch foam brush for best results.

  3. Wait the recommended time for the paint to dry — usually an hour or two — then scuff lightly with 320-grit wet/dry sandpaper. If you see any drip marks, sand them flat, lubricating the sandpaper with a little water, if necessary. The scuffing procedure is important whether you spray or brush and roll.

  4. Apply a second coat. If you’re using a brush and roller, roll first, then brush out the roller marks, this time moving the brush in the opposite direction.

  5. Let the paint cure for at least 24 hours before removing masking tape and reassembling the parts.